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Starch in cosmetics: New functionalities of an ancient practice

Cosmetic products have been part of human culture for thousands of years, and so have natural ingredients like starch. From ancient skincare rituals to modern beauty innovations, starch has played a crucial role due to its abundance and versatility. Today, at CarbExplore, we are redefining what starch can offer to the cosmetics industry. By leveraging enzymatic technology, we are unlocking new, sustainable functionalities that meet the modern demand for high-performance and eco-conscious ingredients.

Starch: A trusted ingredient throughout history

The use of starch in cosmetics dates back centuries. One of the earliest examples, a Roman cream preserved in a tin dating to 150 AD, contained starch as a major ingredient. Historically prized for its natural binding and texturizing properties, starch became a cornerstone in cosmetic formulations long before the rise of synthetic alternatives. Today, it remains a vital component in products ranging from deodorants to eyeshadows, where it enhances texture, improves skin adhesion, and creates a smooth, appealing feel. Its plant-based origin also resonates strongly with today’s consumers who seek cleaner and more natural beauty solutions.

Expanding starch's potential through enzymatic modification

While starch already offers valuable functionalities, its potential can be further expanded through modification. In cosmetics, modified starches are often used to improve water retention and promote film formation. These properties are crucial for the performance of products like conditioners and soaps. These modifications are often achieved through chemical treatments. While effective, they raise concerns around sustainability. 

At CarbExplore, we take a different approach by utilizing enzymatic modification instead of chemical processes. By employing highly specific enzymes, such as our glucanotransferases, we restructure the glucose units in starch molecules. These enzymes break the bonds between glucose units and rebuild them in new, branched configurations, creating complex polymers with improved physicochemical properties. These new starches have increased solubility and delayed retrogradation of gels, both desirable traits for the cosmetic industry. Most importantly, enzymatic modification is a cleaner, lower-energy process, making enzymatically modified starches a more sustainable alternative for chemically modified starches.

A sustainable future for cosmetic ingredients

The future of cosmetics lies in ingredients that deliver exceptional performance while minimizing environmental impact. Enzymatically modified starches represent a new standard, enabling formulators to move beyond the limitations of chemically modified materials. At CarbExplore, we are committed to optimizing our existing enzymatic toolbox but also to discovering and engineering new enzymes that will further expand the possibilities of starch modification. Our mission is to provide the cosmetics industry with sustainable, high-performance solutions that empower brands to meet consumer expectations for innovation.

Get in touch with our team to explore collaboration opportunities.

Interested in how our enzymatic starch innovations can enhance your cosmetic formulations?

Get in touch with our team to explore collaboration opportunities.

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Foto van het Carbexplore team