From precise to holistic: Biotechnological approaches to improving cosmetics

Two approaches shaping modern biotechnology

Modern biotechnology is built on both a foundation of digging deep into the machine of life in search of specific cogs (think genes, enzymes, cells, etc.) and using these specific cogs in new applications. On the other hand, biotechnology has also been used since prehistory to create something better than the sum of its individual parts in fermentation. This holistic process marries microorganisms and ingredients to create beer, bread, yogurt and other fermented foods, without really knowing the underlying cogs in the machine. Using both sides of the biotech coin, we can apply both precision and a holistic approach to tailor new cosmetic solutions.

When it comes to cosmetics, we know that certain key ingredients have a huge impact: vitamin c is a phenomenal anti-oxidant, for example, preventing aging and brightening skin for a youthful appearance. Other ingredients help produce or preserve collagen, key to maintaining skin elasticity. But many of these ingredients can come with formulation challenges, such as stability, solubility or bioavailability in the final product.

The role of enzymes and prebiotics in cosmetic biotechnology

Here's where biotech’s precision can come in handy. Much of life’s inner workings are performed by enzymes, proteins that carry out specific chemical reactions. Enzymes build, breakdown or modify molecules, in the pursuit of energy, storage or carrying out specialized tasks. Enzymes can help improve key cosmetic ingredients: for example, the process of glucosylation, meaning the addition of a glucose unit to a molecule, can improve the stability and solubility of a key ingredient in a formulation, along with making it more bioavailable for the skin. One enzyme class able to glucosylate is glucanotransferases, which can build long chains of glucose, as well as adding glucose units to other kinds of molecules. They just really enjoy glucosylating!

Speaking of long chains of glucose… other key ingredients, gaining more scientific and public attention, are prebiotics. These come in a wide array of molecules, with the requisite that they must feed beneficial bacteria. Certain carbohydrates, such as galacto-oligosaccharides, inulin or reuteran, have been shown to be excellent prebiotics. Enzymes, such as the aforementioned glucanotransferases, are adept at building prebiotic carbohydrates, creating tailored oligosaccharides to encourage beneficial bacteria on our skin, which in turn creates a defensive army against dryness, UV or pollution.

Harnessing fermentation for advanced cosmetic formulations

And if we are already feeding bacteria to improve our skin, why not use microorganisms to make fully functional formulations? Many of the enzymes we use at CarbExplore were sourced from beneficial lactic acid bacteria. Going back to our biotechnological roots, employing these bacteria in fermentations on, for example, fruit juice, we can create a complex mixture of glycosylated compounds and prebiotics. This yields a complex mixture that can do more than the sum of its parts, as natural products and prebiotics work together to help our skin remain youthful and protected.

In using biotech for cosmetics, sometimes precision is required to create specific compounds to target specific problems. Other times, an approach can yield unexpected benefits from different ingredients working together.

At CarbExplore, we explore both sides of the biotech coin: from digging deep into the cogs of life, to letting life work for us, finding new solutions to old problems.